Monday, April 25, 2011

Best of Parisian Movie Theaters


Elevator to the Gallows, one of the very best Film Noir, like EVER, with the original soundtrack by Miles Davis. So good, that if I had to choose, I'd take the album to a deserted island. It just doesn't get better than this. Moody sounds, devastating beauties, brooding criminals, and most importantly breathtaking views of Paris. Yes, cinema loves Paris and Paris loves its cinema.
How lucky am I to have studied film in this iconic city? I remember how impatiently I'd await in class till the lights went off, to discover the new cinematic treasure on the menu that day. From Truffaut, to Godard, Pialat, Varda, Rohmer, Malle, Tati, to Jeunet, and that's just for the Frenchie films...but that's not the point here. The point is that as much as I love French movies, and movies in general, I love watching them in the right atmosphere. And as much as Paris has always been the perfect setting for movies, its cinematic culture and legacy are immeasurable. There are of course tons of movie theaters all over the city, but some are better than others:


La Cinémathèque Francaise THE institution in the Paris film world. The brainchild of Henri Langlois, and the cradle of Nouvelle Vague. As a matter of fact, much of The Dreamers is centered around the Cinémathèque. The 70-year-old film center recently changed locations from the cramped quarters in Northeastern Paris into a modern left-bank building designed by American architect Frank Gehry. La Cinémathèque has shown over 40,000 films in the course of its history, and boasts an impressive archive. But than again, if you are truly into film, you already know everything about this place! Right?
La Cinémathèque française
51, rue de Bercy
75012 PARIS

La Pagode is one of the city's most sumptuous theaters. Located in the heart of the 7th arrondissement, and housed in a 19th-century building whose style mimics a Chinese pagoda.
Inside, a cool green terrace for tea and an unforgettably magical interior.
This was my choice for the viewing of Wong Kar Wai's 2046. Themed and perfect!
La Pagode
57 rue de Babylone
75007 PARIS

Le Champo built in 1938, Le Champo is one of the Latin Quarter's preferred spots. The cinema, a favorite among students at the Sorbonne just a block away, has hosted premieres for French directors like Marcel Carné and Jacques Tati.The Champo is well-known for its memorable retrospectives. It has programmed hommages to Woody Allen, Nouvelle Vague cinema of the 60's, Tim Burton, Claude Chabrol, and Stanley Kubrick.
Le Champo
51 Rue des Ecoles
75005 PARIS

Le Reflet Medicis right next door to the Champo on the famed Rue Champollion. The venue is broken into three distinct theaters with separate programming. Le Reflet draws crowds for its film noir revivals and its focus on some of the best independent cinema from around the world today. Original-version films in English are shown frequently here.
Le Reflet Medicis
3 rue Champollion
75005 Paris

Mk2 Quai de Seine and Mk2 Quai de Loire  are the uber modern sister cinemas that face each other across a canal known as the Bassin de la Villette in Northeastern Paris.
The theaters have been credited to a cultural revival in the formerly seedy 19th district.
Tons of cinematic choices in comfy modern spaces. Actually, that's where I wept to Michel Gondry's Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, conveniently disguised by the darkness of the theater. But if you're lucky enough to pick a happier film, and are in the mood for adventure, with your movie ticket, you can be shuttled in a tiny white boat across the canal.
Mk2
7 Quai de Loire and 14 Quai de Seine
75019 PARIS

Oh and yes, most of these places show movies in English (with French subtitles), but you should always check before going so you're not surprised by the unfortunate invention called dubbing!

Sunday, April 17, 2011

Nostalgic Spring and Summer Tour of Paris


While looking through old photos I found these two, and realized that one is from my very first summer visit to Paris, when I was but a teen,  and the other from my last summer there. I got a bit nostalgic thinking of all the places, and people, and all those years I lived there in between. Summers in Paris are always amazing, regardless the tourists and the pollution. The city makes such a successful effort at offering amazing and free distractions from Fête de la Musique, to Paris Plage, to Jazz festivals and open-air cinema at La Villette. I love the crowded cefes and terraces in Le Marais, Montmartre, or Quartier Latin, Oberkampf, or the Canal St Martin...oooh, even better, rue Montorgueil and rue Tiquetonne.

Ice cream is best on Ile St Louis, and crowd watching, from one of the bridges. Shopping is cool on rue des Francs Bourgeois, rue de Sevres and rue Montorgueil, but my very favorite place in the summer is Place des Vosges for a picnic, and then an apero somewhere on rue Vieille du Temple or rue du Tresor.

So many places and things to do, I could go on forever, so instead I will leave one precise  recommendation for a summer escape. Hop on the RER train, and 45 minutes later you can be riding a rented bike in the Versailles gardens by the stunning chateau. An incredibly beautiful and relaxing way of spending a spring or summer day. Especially for those who need to get away from the busy city!

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Happy Birthday Serge Gainsbourg




If you are in Paris today, you will notice that TV and radio are innundated with Serge Gainsbourg. That's because today is his birthday, and I get to share it with him! He is one of the most prolific figures, not only musically, but culturally, and has marked generations in France and the rest of the world. His daughter Charlotte, while making her own mark, also apparently continues his legacy.

In this Vanity Fair article, we learn that his house at 5 bis Rue de Verneuil remains exactly as it was on the day of his death in 1991, thanks to Charlotte, who is now thinking of turning it into a Gainsbourg museum. I really hope she does. If you know Gainsbourg, you know what I mean. If you don't, you should! He is an integral part of French and Parisian culture as is good wine, Coco Chanel, or obnoxious waiters. But he is not just that. Gainsbourg was a revolutionary, a provocateur, a talent spanning all genres of music, and a self-destructive, somberly seductive character worth knowing.
A semi- successful movie about his life and demons was released in 2010; Gainsbourg Vie Heroique featuring an impressive cast of Parisian darlings. Of course nothing beats learning about Gainsbourg by listening to his music, but if you only have two hours, the movie works as Cliff's Notes would for the likes of Zola or Hugo. This way at least you won't look like an ignorant bumpkin at your next Frenchy house party.

And here is my very favorite song by this timeless virtuoso, with it's provocative lyrics, raw energy, sensual rythm, and always in Gainsbourg's style, oozing with sexuality.