Paris Auctions

Auctions have a long , and somewhat dubious history having been recorded as early as 500 B.C. According to Herodotus, in Babylon auctions of women for the purpose of marriage were held annually. It was considered illegal to allow a daughter to be sold outside of the auction method. Later it was the "Spoils of War"such as conquered land and slaves that would be auctioned off, as well as the assets of debtors.

During the end of the 18th century, soon after the French Revolution, auctions came to be held in taverns and cafés to sell art. Such auctions were held daily, and catalogs were printed to announce available items. France technically isn't the birth place of these art and antique auctions Les Ventes aux Enchères (Sweden is), but their popularity spread like wild fire and today Paris is full of them. Parisians and visitors alike attend on regular basis. Of course, this is just one way of purchasing antiques of all sorts, but non the less a very popular one.

Below I list only some of the biggest and most popular ones:

Christie’s, 9 avenue Matignon, 75008 Paris - 01 40 76 85 85
http://www.christies.com

Sotheby’s, 76 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré, 75008 Paris - 01 53 05 53 05
http://www.sothebys.com 

Artcurial, 7 rond-point des Champs-Elysées, 75008 Paris
http://www.artcurial.com

Tajan, 37 rue des Mathurins - 01 53 30 30 30
http://www.tajan.com



Drouot , 9 rue Drouot, 75009 Paris - 01 53 79 37 29
 http://www.drouot.com

Néret-Minet & Tessier, 8 Rue Saint-Marc, Paris - 01 40 13 07 79
http://www.neret-tessier.com

Millon et Associes, 5 Avenue Eylau, Paris - 01 47 27 95 34

http://www.millon-associes.com

The Decadents, The Symbolists, and The Vampires

My head is stuck in the past. Lately even more than usual. I have been more or less reading several books at once; Dreamers of Decadence, Dracula, The Vampyre, The Symbolists and such... All masterpieces in their own right, and all an easy means to time travel. The recent trip home further justified this drift. European homes and cities are filled with ghosts of the past, antiques, and nostalgia of all sorts.

I decided to devote the next few posts of this blog to antiquarians, flea markets, auction houses and all merchants of memorabilia. Being a hopeless romantic, I have almost entirely devoted my shopping time to scouring antique shops for certain forgotten Victorian objects, and old books as if they would help me restore something of the past. In the process, it dawned on me that I have never explored the subject of antiques much in this blog.

So, that's to come soon.

For now I leave you with this treat from Maxence Cyrin, not really vintage, but a definite treasure

Carla Bruni at Midnight in Paris

I saw Midnight in Paris tonight, and it was perfectly enchanting. So many of my favorite places, so many of my favorite eras, and incredible personas: Toulouse Lautrec, Gaugin, Hemingway, Picasso, Stein, ...Carla Bruni? I still can't get over this woman's multiple lives; a model, heart breaker,  singer,  actress,  first lady! Not everything she has done inspires me, but her versatility does inspire me greatly!
I think her best role so far is linked to the release of her first album, which was unfortunately doomed to be soon overplayed, and as the result, BLAH. However, the very first time it was introduced, it sounded incredible; her voice was surprisingly good, the melodies astoundingly personal, and the lyrics,  well that was just a total shocker. For some reason when I left the cinema tonight  "Quelqu’un m’a dit" the big hit from a few years ago kept playing in my head. Funny. I mean it's not even in the movie. The film was perfectly amusing, and she did look beautiful in the brief cameo and all (though rumor has it, she was a pill to direct), but that song, though not related,  evoked something of the film actually, a certain sentimentality. I just couldn't get it out of my head. So here is the song and the translation - which is never as good as the real thing, but it roughly gets the point across. Voila.....

                       

Quelqu’un m’a dit (Carla Bruni) – translation

Paris Thrift Stores

"See, the sea wants to take me. The knife wants to slit me. Do you think you can help me?"
Who else, but The Smiths, can so effortlessly and lucidly send blows straight to the heart?


Ha! I guess being alone is not always a bad thing. We all enjoy it...sometimes. I mean, occasionally, I like being completely antisocial and selfish. I like wondering the streets of Paris all by myself, taking it all in. I don't like to share then. It's as if the city belongs to me. This sort of "alone" is fine. It's periodic, and refreshing. But if the Smiths are in the mix, wine is pouring, and the mood is pensive, it's probably best not to wander too far! This may be more serious. And a specific form of distraction may be needed. Something that can be enjoyed solo, and is only mildly, or not at all destructive!

My favorite places to visit, and lift the mood, are the many wonderful thrift stores of Paris. You never know what or whom you may find. You don't need an entourage. You can be reckless and you won't go bankrupt, and it's been proven that impulse purchases are fantastic dopamine boosters! You'll also be distracted by the mounds of colorful retro goods, and disco, afrobeat, or funk music! Well, as least at Free P Star you will. I guess there are many echelon's of thrift stores; some, like Didier Ludot, are really high-end, but most are definitely eclectic! I also like the late hours of operations at Free P. So if it's near midnight and you just then feel like you need to venture out by your lonesome, and purchase some cool antique cigarette holder, or hat, it is still totally possible.

In any case, whether you're solo or accompanied, here are my favorite thrift stores of Gay Paris!

Free ‘P’ Star
8 rue Ste Croix la Bretonnerie
Absolutely THE BEST and unparalleled. It's total mayhem, kind of smells like thrift,  the loudest, most crowded and disorganized. BUT the atmosphere is fun, the mess is liberating, the selection is wide, and the crowd entertaining. The owners clearly have an eye for the trends, so you’re bound to find some true treasures. Going in, you’ll come across the €5 bins and some great dresses, but don’t miss the little winding staircase to the lower floor for a ton of inexpensive leather and great blazers. There is also that weird mini mezzanine you have to climb to, and a strange tiny yet walk-in closet packed with wonders! Get lost. Enjoy!
Noon-11pm Mon-Sat,  2-10pm Sun.

Kiliwatch
64 Rue Tiquetonne, (+33-1-42-21-17-37)
I remember when this was mostly vintage...back in the day. Now it's well known spot, a pearl!
They have a great eye for unique pieces so you'll find  a mix of hottest trends in both, brand new, and vintage categories. The store is known for being the place to find it all, and despite the fact that the it's become more commercialized over the years, you'll still find great vintage buys.
9am-6pm Mon-Sat

Frip’ Irium
1 Rue de la Verrerie
Frip’ Irium is possibly related to Free P Star - they may or may not be distant cousins. The resemblance is vague, but undeniable. This shop is fairly small but more organized than its relative, with some cool shoes, vests and jackets to be found. The leather jackets cost a bit more at €50-70 on average.

La Belle Epoque
La Belle Epoque, 10 rue de Poitou, 3rd (+33-6-80-77-71-32). Métro St Sébastien Froissart. 
In the shop you’ll find everything from the blue velvet Grace Jones ensemble by Yves Saint Laurent to a selection of inexpensive ’70s shirts and fake fur coats. Ex-model and theatrical costumier Philippe is always happy to share her expertise about the many joys of vintage.
1.30-6.30pm Tue-Sat.
 

Rag
Rag, 83-85 rue St-Martin, 4th (+33-1-48-87-34-64). Métro Rambuteau. 
My friend Aldo works there so I always have to stop by. This is a two part deal. One half of Rag focuses on more casual getup like pilots’ navy jumpers and 1970s shirts at €15, colorful puffer jackets and ’70s heels; the other side is more chic and may yield a vintage Hermès scarf, 1960s Paco Rabanne dress or Gucci accessory.
10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun.

Le Verger du Prince
33 Rue de Sicile
Make sure to venture inside as there is a whole back room of cheaply priced leather jackets that is worth checking out. You can get one for €25. The front room has a good selection of accessories, tops, and dresses. The €5 bin is not always the best and may be almost entirely filled with old, ugly cotton t-shirts. Don't pay attention to the bin. Ignore it and focus on the leather!


Coiffeur Vintage
32 Rue de Rosiers
Smallish but good. This is actually accessory heaven: they have countless cool belts and a good assortment of unique shoes. This one is in the Jewish part of the Marais district ; so make sure to grab a strudel, or a falafel while you're at it.

A.P.C. Surplus
4 Rue de Fleurus
This store has a smaller selection and the jeans are no bargain at all. Great preppy basics though, but not cheap. Not really a thrift shop in the end, more of a discount store.

Didier Ludot
20-24 galerie de Montpensier, 1st (+33 1 42 96 06 56  www.didierludot.com).

The legendary dealer Didier Ludot has a couple of incredible antique couture shops near the Palais Royal. While riffling through the museum-quality fashions (everything from Dior, Chanel, or Givenchy couture to early YSL) you might discover an Art Deco evening clutch with a bamboo closure.   This place isn't cheap, but neither are the clothes. 10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat.


Scarlett,
10 Rue-Clément Marot, Eighth Arr. (+ 33-1-56-89-03-00)
Situated just off the Avenue Montaigne. This place is a must see, even though it is small and cluttered. The impressive stock includes items like antique trunks or tweed Chanel Sac Chine. Elegant? Yes, but not cheap!!!!!


Les Trois Marches de Catherine B
1 Rue Guisarde, Sixth Arr. (+33-1-43-54-74-18)
On the Left Bank, the more prissy and well-organized Les Trois Marches de Catherine B has been selling vintage purses for over 15 years. It's all about being "presentable," the owners claim. We're on the left bank let's not forget. So the pieces are in fact, impeccable, and mostly in mint condition. 

The New Sound of Paris: from Jamaica to Phoenix

I've been listening to "Short and Entertaining" on repeat for at least two days now, all the while trying to think of a way to integrate it into the blog. I felt it might be a stretch, until of course I started reading about the band, and found out that Jamaica is a Parisian act. I thought I could hear it slightly in the sound, but I was fooled by the English vocals, the Jamaican name, and the logo reminiscent of Polish  Solidarnosc font from the 80's.

Since Justice, Surkin, Daft Punk, M83, Phoenix, Sebastian Tellier and of course even Uffie - who is Parisian only by adoption, but still in my mind belongs to Paris - I've actually have been wanting to write about the "new" sound coming out of the French capital for a while now.
I never was a huge fan of Phoenix because personally I find they sound a tad too commercial and fruity, but I always loved Tellier, M83, and the big electro sounds of Justice and Daft Punk. So, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that the members of the latter two bands are producers of Jamaica. Makes sense. I can hear how they all influence one another. Jamaica's kinda like Phoenix but better, grittier. And of course, it's a whole country, not just an arid city.

The funny thing about all of these acts is that today their music defines the sound of Paris, and yet it is such a hodgepodge of references and influences. the English vocals for Phoenix, Jamaica and even M83 set them apart from previous French bands who have often been highly influenced by American pop culture, but tried remaining French, and stuck to singing in their language. Also, the new bands openly use references that are purely American in nature, like the bikers/rockers in "Short and Entertaining", or they espouse international cues. It would seem that the music scene in France is clearly affected by globalization, but all those pop influence are no longer taken at face value as in the past, or merely borrowed, they are now owned and mixed with a highly European electro sound, and other odd trimming, to create something unique and new. I'm a fan! The infectious hooks and melodies, the highly intriguing lyrics,  and awesome video  have me wanting to dance, like constantly! Check out this perfect Sunday morning treat; here is Short and Entertaining by Jamaica

Best of Parisian Movie Theaters

Elevator to the Gallows, one of the very best Film Noir, like EVER, with the original soundtrack by Miles Davis. So good, that if I had to choose, I'd take the album to a deserted island. It just doesn't get better than this. Moody sounds, devastating beauties, brooding criminals, and most importantly breathtaking views of Paris. Yes, cinema loves Paris and Paris loves its cinema.

How lucky am I to have studied film in this iconic city? I remember how impatiently I'd await in class till the lights went off, to discover the new cinematic treasure on the menu that day. From Truffaut, to Godard, Pialat, Varda, Rohmer, Malle, Tati, to Jeunet, and that's just for the Frenchie films...but that's not the point here. The point is that as much as I love French movies, and movies in general, I love watching them in the right atmosphere. And as much as Paris has always been the perfect setting for movies, its cinematic culture and legacy are immeasurable. There are of course tons of movie theaters all over the city, but some are better than others:


La Cinémathèque Francaise THE institution in the Paris film world. The brainchild of Henri Langlois, and the cradle of Nouvelle Vague. As a matter of fact, much of The Dreamers is centered around the Cinémathèque. The 70-year-old film center recently changed locations from the cramped quarters in Northeastern Paris into a modern left-bank building designed by American architect Frank Gehry. La Cinémathèque has shown over 40,000 films in the course of its history, and boasts an impressive archive. But than again, if you are truly into film, you already know everything about this place! Right?
La Cinémathèque française
51, rue de Bercy
75012 PARIS

La Pagode is one of the city's most sumptuous theaters. Located in the heart of the 7th arrondissement, and housed in a 19th-century building whose style mimics a Chinese pagoda.
Inside, a cool green terrace for tea and an unforgettably magical interior.
This was my choice for the viewing of Wong Kar Wai's 2046. Themed and perfect!
La Pagode
57 rue de Babylone
75007 PARIS

Le Champo built in 1938, Le Champo is one of the Latin Quarter's preferred spots. The cinema, a favorite among students at the Sorbonne just a block away, has hosted premieres for French directors like Marcel Carné and Jacques Tati.The Champo is well-known for its memorable retrospectives. It has programmed hommages to Woody Allen, Nouvelle Vague cinema of the 60's, Tim Burton, Claude Chabrol, and Stanley Kubrick.
Le Champo
51 Rue des Ecoles
75005 PARIS

Le Reflet Medicis right next door to the Champo on the famed Rue Champollion. The venue is broken into three distinct theaters with separate programming. Le Reflet draws crowds for its film noir revivals and its focus on some of the best independent cinema from around the world today. Original-version films in English are shown frequently here.
Le Reflet Medicis
3 rue Champollion
75005 Paris

Mk2 Quai de Seine and Mk2 Quai de Loire  are the uber modern sister cinemas that face each other across a canal known as the Bassin de la Villette in Northeastern Paris.
The theaters have been credited to a cultural revival in the formerly seedy 19th district.
Tons of cinematic choices in comfy modern spaces. Actually, that's where I wept to Michel Gondry's Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, conveniently disguised by the darkness of the theater. But if you're lucky enough to pick a happier film, and are in the mood for adventure, with your movie ticket, you can be shuttled in a tiny white boat across the canal.
Mk2
7 Quai de Loire and 14 Quai de Seine
75019 PARIS

Oh and yes, most of these places show movies in English (with French subtitles), but you should always check before going so you're not surprised by the unfortunate invention called dubbing!

Nostalgic Spring and Summer Tour of Paris

While looking through old photos I found these two, and realized that one is from my very first summer visit to Paris, when I was but a teen,  and the other from my last summer there. I got a bit nostalgic thinking of all the places, and people, and all those years I lived there in between. Summers in Paris are always amazing, regardless the tourists and the pollution. The city makes such a successful effort at offering amazing and free distractions from Fête de la Musique, to Paris Plage, to Jazz festivals and open-air cinema at La Villette. I love the crowded cefes and terraces in Le Marais, Montmartre, or Quartier Latin, Oberkampf, or the Canal St Martin...oooh, even better, rue Montorgueil and rue Tiquetonne.

Ice cream is best on Ile St Louis, and crowd watching, from one of the bridges. Shopping is cool on rue des Francs Bourgeois, rue de Sevres and rue Montorgueil, but my very favorite place in the summer is Place des Vosges for a picnic, and then an apero somewhere on rue Vieille du Temple or rue du Tresor.

So many places and things to do, I could go on forever, so instead I will leave one precise  recommendation for a summer escape. Hop on the RER train, and 45 minutes later you can be riding a rented bike in the Versailles gardens by the stunning chateau. An incredibly beautiful and relaxing way of spending a spring or summer day. Especially for those who need to get away from the busy city!

Happy Birthday Serge Gainsbourg

If you are in Paris today, you will notice that TV and radio are innundated with Serge Gainsbourg. That's because today is his birthday, and I get to share it with him! He is one of the most prolific figures, not only musically, but culturally, and has marked generations in France and the rest of the world. His daughter Charlotte, while making her own mark, also apparently continues his legacy.

In this Vanity Fair article, we learn that his house at 5 bis Rue de Verneuil remains exactly as it was on the day of his death in 1991, thanks to Charlotte, who is now thinking of turning it into a Gainsbourg museum. I really hope she does. If you know Gainsbourg, you know what I mean. If you don't, you should! He is an integral part of French and Parisian culture as is good wine, Coco Chanel, or obnoxious waiters. But he is not just that. Gainsbourg was a revolutionary, a provocateur, a talent spanning all genres of music, and a self-destructive, somberly seductive character worth knowing.
A semi- successful movie about his life and demons was released in 2010; Gainsbourg Vie Heroique featuring an impressive cast of Parisian darlings. Of course nothing beats learning about Gainsbourg by listening to his music, but if you only have two hours, the movie works as Cliff's Notes would for the likes of Zola or Hugo. This way at least you won't look like an ignorant bumpkin at your next Frenchy house party.

And here is my very favorite song by this timeless virtuoso, with it's provocative lyrics, raw energy, sensual rythm, and always in Gainsbourg's style, oozing with sexuality.

Remembrance of Things Past - The Proust Paris Tour

Youth is wasted on the young, said an old friend of mine. I wish I believed him. You are young and then one day you are not. Youth is innocence. Though innocence can be lost at any age I assume. Holding on to some part of it is like holding on to a lifeline. On another hand, Proust said "True paradise, is the one we've lost". I must be in paradise than!!!

If like me, you too are In Search Of Lost Time, and perhaps in search of some part of Proust himself, than I will share a little find I have discovered recently. Kind of a cool concept actually, if you are part nerd, and part adventurer. So,  there are tours "by the book" where you can follow your favorite authors' lives and works while visiting the city. Now, I wouldn't advise signing up for this particular tour, unless you are a woman on a mission and over 50 - as this seems to be the focus - no offense of course. But I will assume some Proust fans are young-ish.  So this site makes it a bit easier, and is more all-encompassing. The five walking tours presented reflect the circularity of Proust's existence and of his novel's design. They also provide a wonderful way of discovering the Paris.

http://www.nysoclib.org


I thought these nostalgic images from my mom's student years in Paris would be appropriate for the theme of this blog!

Stuff Parisians Like

When one of the marketing tools of a wine bar is hiring the chef from Top Chef France, Tiffany Depardieu, I'm thinking Yuck! The mere thought of Top Chef France is scary in principle. Globalization stops at nothing! The show is of course airing at my former place of employment, the young and "hip" French  channel M6. In reality it is a French MTV rip off, with much bad reality TV and even worst music - for the most part. I'm thinking, that this place has got to be for Parisians who desperately want to be Americans, catering to Americans, who want to be Parisians. This can't be good. I can smell the marketing plan from afar!

 The wine bar in question Ô Chateau is located in a historical building tucked in a tiny street near the Louvre (more tourist alerts). There are 40 wines by the glass and 400 by the bottle including some of the biggest labels in France. The chef (again, of Top Chef France) has created a menu around elements of French terroir. Skeptically, I review the pages of the website, reading up on this Americanized French wine tasting spot, but the more I read, the more I am drawn in. The about page, though pretty long, is really funny. I end up reading the whole thing cracking up alone to the humor. I end up finding out that the author, is the owner of this wine bar, and his blog - Stuff Parisians Like - filled with irreverent jokes, draws so much attention, that it is now a best selling book “Dessine-Moi un Parisien“.

Yes, the owner, Olivier Magny,  has smartly positioned himself for a global public, using tools that will appeal to both the French and American public. His media links surely help him shamelessly promote his brand. And even though, at first glance all these tactics remind me of some sterile bands like Starbucks, which void of character, are all about commerce, and over all are a total turn off, but the vibe I get here is definitely a fun one. I was swayed and thought it was worth exploring. At the very least, it's an entertaining read!

68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. Near Etienne Marcel.  
01.44.73.97.80
www.o-chateau.com

Hermès Museum

Recently I stumbled upon a little treasure of an event. Hermès organized a traveling Festival Des Métiers: A Rendez-Vous with Hermès Craftsmen. I witnessed artisans working the leather for purses and saddles, diamonds being set, and most importantly, the meticulous work that goes into creating each scarf, sometimes taking thousands of hours. I was so fortunate to stumble upon this expo. I knew some of my aquaintences visited the ateliers in Paris, but I wondered if there was something ongoing (like this expo) and open to the curious.

I found out that there is a museum. The downside; it is not open to the general public! However the secrecy and exclusivity surrounding the establishment makes it only more appealing. You either have to be invited, or write a letter to the manager and request a visit.
According to this article www.architecturaldigest.com among countless objects, "is a great 19th-century statesman’s traveling case, complete with ivory- handled razors and silver drinking vessels; there, a beautifully decorated rocking horse, a Russian coachman’s velvet hat, an empress’s embroidered saddle, a lady’s ancient but well-preserved purse, now containing only the dust and poetry of the past." And that's just a little preview. The private collection seems to be vast.

I am highly tempted to pull out my old fountain pen,  and my best stationary, to begin writing this request letter. However, another source sates that this hidden museum was closed for remodeling, and whether it is reopened remains a mystery. Something to look into and post about very soon!!!

The museum is apparently located on the, 2nd floor of
24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
75008 Paris, France
01 40 17 47 17

Diptyque Candles

My scented obsession. Really. Nothing smells as good as this. Nothing should smell anything less than this.
I'm really not a great fan of scented candles because frankly, 99% of the time they smell like a chemical wasteland, a fake strawberry field on steroids, or something close to that. It always makes me wonder what's in them, and what i am inhaling. But this is an exception.

The St-Germain store, which still exists, opened in 1961. It was the creative business venture of three friends, painter Desmond Knox-Leet (whose drawings grace the boxes and labels of the products), set designer Yves Coueslant, and architecture worker Christiane Gautrot.  The name Diptyque (from Ancient Greek) refers to a painting or sculpture composed of two panels or parts. The original store has two identical window after which the brand was named. Initially a spot for fabrics and decor, it quickly became a home and personal fragrance mecca, with stores and products sold all over the world.

If you haven't tried these yet, find a place near you, or go to Paris and purchase a few. Now they offer mini candles as well, which is a great way to discover new scents. That's what I am doing currently, though I am still faithful to my main fragrances: Figue and Baies in candles, and the fig derived perfume Philosykos.

Diptyque. 34 boulevard Saint-Germain
5th Arrondissement, Paris 75005.
Tel: 01 43 26 45 27
www.diptyqueparis.com

Strictly Konfidentiel

Strictly Konfidentiel and clearly kitsch should be the full name of this newly opened hotel establishment. It seems to be somewhat of a pale knockoff of other popular boutique hotels like the Costes or Lacroix. Thematic rooms are evidently still the rage. Here the six suites take the spirit of historic French figures. Marie Antoinette wallpaper, red carpets, and chandeliers make it seem like the perfect hotel for the kind of traveler who is rich, but tasteless, and who unabashedly engages in souvenir shopping. If your idea of spending time in Paris is basking in replicas of parisian clichés, then you're in for a treat. Just don't forget your Eiffel Tower snow globe on the way home. On the bright side,  the hotel is situated in a 15th-century building off the Rue de Rivoli. You'd be only steps away from the Louvre, Rue St Honoré, Place de la Concorde and many other attractions. Complimentary wireless Internet access is available in public areas, and also, breakfast is delivered to your room.  A little bit of kitsch never hurt anyone.

Hotel Konfidentiel, 64 Rue de l'Arbre Sec, 1st arrondissement (00 33 1 55 34 40 40). 
from about $330 - $500.
www.konfidentiel-paris.com

Hôtel Le Bellechasse

Christian Lacroix, one of my very favorite (retired) fashion designers, is still creating today, though in another realm. The new creation is Hôtel Le Bellechasse, situated on the left bank near St Germain. Like his Hotel Du Petit Moulin (a very special place, which was covered in this blog a couple of years ago), Le Bellechasse is also a boutique establishment. The 34 room spot is nested in a building that dates back to 1840, and is as eclectic and unique as the designer himself. Once again, Lacroix left his indelible mark and by the same token created an amazing oasis for all those who wish to stay near the 15th, the 7th and 6th, but prefer a discrete and cozy, yet imaginative atmosphere.


Hotel Le Bellechasse
8 rue de Bellechasse
75007 Paris
Tel: +33(0)1 45 50 22 31
www.lebellechasse.com