Le Derriere: The Back End Of Paris

One of the things I most love about Paris is its cultural substance. By that I don't mean Luis XVI rococo opulence, which I find particularly tasteless, but the diversity that can be found from one

district to another, from a restaurant to another. I love seeing the African women dressed in bright and colorful fabrics, others in Djellabas, Japanese tourists cuing outside of Vuitton and the Russians raiding L'Avenue - the overpriced restaurant on avenue Montaigne. I love buying roasted chestnuts on the street, seeing a free jazz concert, then eating at a fabulous brasserie or a brand new spot that is sleek and modern and totally New Yorkais. Paris is a cornucopia of traditions.

I love its off-beat vibe and the depth of the heritage that surrounds me when I walk down any street. I found the perfect spot to stand as a metaphor for all that. Le Derriere. Same word in English, so you get the picture. But just in case: the buttocks; the rear. In this instance, the back of another restaurant, the back of a building. Catchy. And so is the place.


I've always been fond of magic realism, and this is as close as I will ever get at a restaurant/ game room/ bar/ someones dilapidated apartment. You'll walk through armoire doors like these to other secret rooms, some stylish and some completely demolished.

People of all ages come to dine, to socialize or to play ping-pong. You could also totally take a sink bath. I won't go into it, but it's worth checking out.

69, rue des Gravilliers. 75003 Paris. + 33 1 44 61 91 95
http://derriere-resto.com/restaurant/paris/derriere/

Le Grand Filles et Fils

Le Grand Filles et Fils
at Galerie Vivienne

1 Rue de la Banque
75002 Paris, France
01 42 60 07 12

My stepfather was born in Nancy, a city in the Meurthe-et-Moselle department in north-eastern France, and formerly the capital of the Duchy of Lorraine - not that you needed to know this, or that you cared. He and his family left for America when he was only a little boy, this is why one of the very few things he remembers from Nancy, are les bonbons à la bergamote, or in English, candy with bergamot - can't beat a childhood souvenir. Its distinctive aroma is most commonly known for its use in Earl Gray tea. My step father mentioned this often, and reveled in how amazing this candy was. While living in Paris I tried to find this delicacy for him. I was unsuccessful. It wasn't until one day I randomly lost myself in the beautiful Galerie Vivienne - by far the most elegant of the passages near Palais Royal with gorgeous floor mosaics, exquisite boutiques, tea rooms, galleries and restaurants - that I found this sweet delicacy.

Le Grand Filles et Fils, a 19th century wine cave and épicerie is nestled right in the middle of all that beauty. It deserves a visit not only for its charm but for all the goodies you will be able to sample and purchase. From excellent wines, to cheeses, preserves and sweets, teas and coffees from around the world, the épicerie has it all, including the aforementioned candy à la bergamote. When I shipped them to my father I wasn't yet sure it was exactly what he was hoping for, but it turned out to be. Ever since that time, I always visit Le Grand while in Paris, for my dad, but also to pick up exquisite and rare treats for those friends who I know appreciate the better things in life, and of course for me. They do after all carry handmade chocolate!!!

http://www.caves-legrand.com