Toussaint

The French, like many other European countries, are starting to slowly buy into the many rituals of the conspicuous consumption that is Halloween. It's great for economy and it's a party! In reality Europeans celebrate their dead very differently; in peace, surrounded by family, and often at the tombs. I won't go into it here as I have already posted about this some time ago, so feel free to look that up as Toussaint. I am, however, going to share the photos documenting the last time I visited 

 the dead of Paris!

 

 

 

 

Vandalism unfortunately hasn't spared the catacombs.

1 Place Denfert-Rochereau
75014 Paris, France
01 43 22 47 63

Open Tue-Sun 10am-4pm

Atelier Brancusi

I have gone to this gym in Beaubourg for over a decade, and for almost as long, I have wanted to visit the famous l'Atelier Brancusi. Well, the atelier is literally right in front of my gym, and I have somehow missed this. One word: Adderall!

So I finally make it. The visit is a form of time travel, as the smallish building is an exact replica of the sculptor's actual studio. On his death bed he bequeathed his workshop and all its contents to the French government on one condition;  that the Musée National d'Art Moderne recreate the studio as it had been in its original location near Montparnasse. The building stands separate from, but adjacent to the Centre Georges Pompidou, courtesy of architect Renzo Piano. What's more,  admission is free. The building's pretty tiny and at first glance can seem disappointing if you are expecting a traditional museum experience, but the intimacy, and fact that you are basically visiting the sculptors studio, make up for the size.

As in my eyes, Brancusi is second only to Jacometti, this was quite a treat! I liked seeing how he worked. I got to eavesdrop on a very educated conversation regarding the sculptor and learned that upon arriving in Paris he was invited to work under Rodin, but left as to avoid being influenced by Rodin's style.

His geometrical silhouettes are so clean-lined and prudent and beautiful. He saw his atelier as part of the works and how they should be viewed. He wasn't wrong.

Place Georges Pompidou
Paris 75004
Metro: Rambuteau
www.centrepompidou.fr

Modern Rhapsodies

Being foreign I sometimes end up twisting phrases or idioms. It's often comical. English is not my 1st language so I can hide behind that excuse. Some of those twists though are really funny (no, really), and on lucky days, they' re ironic. Nothing like some accidental irony. There is the "chairs have turned", and "everything is going west" and other such treats.  It's cool. I can laugh at myself besides I'm into stuff that's a little different, and that's not just in English grammar. SO here is something different and beautifully haunting...

Switching to French(ness)... in my previous post I mentioned some musical talents, including Maxence Cyrin, who became sort of an obsession. Knowing he was performing as I was landing in Paris last summer, I literally terrorized everyone I was with, and rushed them straight from the airport to the legendary jazz joint Sunside on rue des Lombards. Even though I missed the beginning of the intimate concerto, Cyrin gave such a real and long performance, that I was beyond gratified. All the sweat, scattered friends, rushing and frenzy payed off.

Cyrin was first noticed because of his classical piano interpretations of 80's and 90's musical gems by the likes of Felix, Aphex Twin, Massive Attack ...need I say more?  The first album Modern Rhapsodies didn't just feature pop re-interpreted. Here were house and trip hop songs, that revolutionized their era, seen through this new prism. Since then he has played all of the hottest Parisian spots and clubs. I was obviously curious what treats the new album would hold, and I wasn't dissapointed. There are the Pixies and Cocteau Twins, and just to add enough dimenton, a little popular vulgarism, Beyoncé (right with the fake French accent at the end). But during the concert Cyrin played songs not featured on the album (sadly), by artists such as Bjork. He also freestyled by having the audience throw random words at him which he then musically interpreted. I like the twists his music takes. I like the unexpected effect of familiar sounds served this way; cliché belly up. The new album, Novo Piano, is pretty devastating, though I still think the first, Modern Rhapsodies, is his biggest triumph!

Sexuality Remix

My current state has just been heightened by some very powerful French musical opiates. Accidentally while browsing my favorite Parisian artists I stumbled upon a remix album of Sexuality, by Sebastien Tellier. The original came out two years ago and instantly grabbed me, second only after the absolute wonder, Maxence Cyrin (but that's a separate post). An audioporncentral.com (how appropriate) article you can read here does a great job at explaining the remixed state of Sexuality and its origins.
I highly recommend you first flood your senses

with the pure and un-blended version of Tellier's album if you haven't already. But don't deprive yourselves of the many interpretations of his songs. Both albums are original, raw and slightly emotional. Since I discovered the remixes I've been oscillating between the two cds, occasionally throwing in some Maxence here and there. The result: a welcomed, hazy (that's probably the red wine) mellow and total aural ecstasy. Music is the one art form that can dominate the moods and emotions of the heedless. In this particular case put down your armor and let it take you for the ride. Unfortunately, I find it increasingly rare to discover artists whose music is authentic, and stirring. Tellier belongs to that scarce minority.

Must hear: L'amour et la violence, and La Ritournelle, and last but not least Divine (Danger Remix)

www.myspace.com/sebastientellier

Le Point Ephémère

I hedge between making this blog a tad more personal (exercise in writing), and informative (useful guide to Paris). Something about getting personal on a public platform makes me uneasy, and yet somehow I am tempted. Blogging is perhaps a form of exhibitionism, because really, who cares what I have to say. I still throw it at the world and the receivers on the other side of their screens must be voyeurs of sorts. OK. SO now I am getting perhaps a tad too philosophical. Long story short, the best blogs are probably those that combine enough of the personal to make the dry facts interesting.
For me it is a sort of creative and cognitive outlet, a parenthesis, un point emphémère.

The best places are the ones that can combine several experiences in one. There is a space like this in Paris, where I particularly enjoyed unwinding, but where people do much more besides just chillin' out. Le Point Ephémère is a living cultural space that combines bar, with music and art. It is managed by Usines Éphémère – a not-for-profit organization that converts wastelands into cultural centers. Cheap drinks, great music - be it live or electro to dance to - art expos, art community and fun by the water - as the cafe is located on the Quay Valmy by the river - it is all that and more. By far one of the best spots in Paris, especially in the warmer months.


Quai de Valmy
75010 Paris, France
01 40 34 02 48
www.pointephemere.org